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Wednesday 26 July 2023

The Himalayan Hangover... Harshil

As usual we had discussed and pondered over our travel plans before we embarked on this journey. Harshil wasn't my first choice, I was looking for some lush green valleys in Himachal but then settled quietly succumbing to my husband and his friend's enthusiasm. They kept watching blogs , finalised the cottage after we blocked our dates.

Apart from planning mine and daughter's attire, contemplating the chill there, rescheduling dates because of personal, professional commitments I didn't do much of research, I usually depend on others for that.... but followed posts and pictures shared on different groups. Bit of googling told me Ram Teri Ganga Maili was shot there.. gradually I was gearing up for the trip. Husband was raving about ' Gartang Gali ' and ' Neylong Valley ' and was busy arranging passes for all five of us. As usual I didn't pay  much heed as he can be really excited for weird things! Though Gartang Gali seemed intriguing some ancient wooden staircase beside river Bhagirathi and into the mountains...the staircase used to be old Indo Tibet route for trade. We were ready after lots of upheavals on the personal front and started for Jolly Grant, Dehradun for night stay in one Friday afternoon, reason for choosing Jolly Grant was to avoid the maddening rush in Rishikesh.

Day 1: Gurgaon to Jolly Grant, Dehradun
The drive was uneventful except that it was the beginning of a coveted trip and we chatted and stopped for tea, I played loads of eighties songs which we hummed together. As usual roped in so
me drama , by urging Dada to stop for a roadside sunset in the farm fields.



Jain Shikanji turned out to be pretty ordinary

Jolly Grant stay was comfortable, cosy with excellent food at a hotel named MJ Suites. We had a fabulous dinner before slumping off to bed. Next day we were prepared for a marathon drive after a hearty breakfast at the hotel.

Day 2: Jolly Grant to Awana Cottage, Sukki

We knew it would be a long tedious drive but so long really! With my daughter and friend not feeling well, aggravated things a little more! But then the Himalayas!


Stopping at roadside joints first for tea and some awesome milk rusks which we loved so much that we bought the entire jar from the shop 🫣! The husband had glared as me and Dada swooned over the rusk and bought the entire jar much to the shopkeeper and the other associates' shock!


Beautiful Tehri!


Next stop was near Dharasu, which had a helipad nearby. We had Maggi and some fiercely oily fries!



By the time we reached Uttarkashi, we were a bit exhausted but the thrill of what lies ahead kept me beaming! Besides the first sight of Bhagirathi was like meeting with the myth... mountains on its side, we were on the gateways of real ' Devbhoomi ' where myths and gods played with the mountains and rivers! Registration because of ' Char Dham' yatra was a bit tedious, I think it can be done online as well, would save one from the hassles. The drive from Uttarkashi though was smooth, it was getting dark and narrow stretches made us wait for the vehicles from the opposite side. Besides the darkness gives the feeling of getting delayed and made us a bit paranoid among the mountains! Are we going to reach really!


It was almost nine when we reached Awana Cottage and it was chilly outside. We had no idea on the view save the gigantic dark mountains standing tall as sentinels! The resort manager kept in touch with us as kitchen would close by ten! And I had no wish to starve at night! Food was warm and veg as expected and we conspired how we'd convince the owner to get some non veg food the day after!

Day 3 : Into the mountains... Gartang Gali and Neylong Valley

Morning was amazing with spectacular views that we had watched for the first time! Streams, springs flowing through the distant mountain, sound of the stream near by , also buzzing choppers for Gangotri.


View from Awana Cottage



Harshil


Bhaironghati




Amazing Neylong Valley near China border



For those for whom mountains are well.. mountains, they might not find the valley worth a visit amidst all the defence people and not much to explore after getting those expensive passes for self and vehicle. Entries and loitering is quite restricted there. We found the view spectacular but yes would have loved more! Husband also informed you can get passes for the Naga Valley ahead...that must be more exclusive!

Lunch was near the wayside bus stand. Roti/sabji, Maggi...was a bit dusty but the simple warm food made us overlook as we set for the much awaited Gartang Gali.


We huffed and puffed as usual as we started the trek. Both husband and me swore silently this is the last time...with rebelling knees and heart literally trying to jump out of chest. But then Bhagirathi and the mountains and the whisper of the river! My daughter's remark ' Maa the sound of the river... amazing na'...indeed the sound of the singing river echoed deep as we moved into the depth of the mountains!




Renovated Gartang Gali... ancient trading route to Tibet


With such a stage and mountains and river as the audience... husband was set for some drama.

The trek took us around two and half hours and we relaxed with Maggi and tea wayside after that. Dinner was chicken that we bought from Harshil gaon and cooked in our cottage. It was home style cooked and we savoured it after a long day.

Day 4: Harshil and Gangotri

Sometimes weird plans make it super fun. Such was my idea of draping saree with my friend and convinced our spouses for a half day photo session besides the river! We stumbled in the uneven pebbles, posed , bathed ourselves in the dust blowing across the river and giggled like girls. Wind played haywire with our hair and dust crunched through gritted teeth! Well Instagram reels can't be more unrealistic! Actually husbands did co-operate and shot some reels...who could imagine!





My favourite from the trip


We flaunted our sarees, shot reels. I did team saree with a pair of sneakers!



Lunch was at a local joint in Harshil village. We had delectable mutton momos which were washed away fast and yummy egg noodles. Locals do have non veg, only in Gangotri it's vegetarian without onion, garlic. After lunch we started for Gangotri around 30 km from Harshil village.




Not being religious minded, I shy away from temples and public religious gatherings and also dread long queues of devotees! But Gangotri with mighty mountains standing tall as sentinels guarding the river flowing from their womb was mystic , majestic and overwhelming! It could transport the soul to ages behind in search of self! I was reminded of Edmund Hilary's ' Journey into the mountains ', from my class ten English Rapid reader, the journey from Gangasagar to Gaumukh, from inception to oblivion the story of the river. Luckily the crowd was sparse and I could soak in the river flowing from the mountains! Also marvel at Gauri Kund and Suraj Kund!





Gauri Kund


Suraj Kund

After a long day, the drive towards Awana Cottage seemed extraordinary long after picking up raw mutton from Harshil for dinner. The chefs arranged a fabulous mutton and we slumped into bed after shower. Needless to say tonnes of dust and sand accumulated within hair and face which needed a massive struggle for a wash! Perks of running after insta reels!

Day 5: Drive to Rishikesh

It wasn't easy leaving Harshil! The terrain was mystic, majestic, magnificent. The drive to Rishikesh was picturesque with springs at every other curve...so true to the lyrics of the Ram Teri Ganga Maili song, ' Chote chote jharne hain...ke jharno ke paani chukar kuch waade karne hain!'




I longed for some green meadows, ' bugyal' as they call it...


Beautiful Jacaranda on the way



When we stopped for tea

I was gazing lazily out of the window near Chamba, humming ' Parbat ke peeche Chambera gaon hain, gaon mein do premi rahte hain!' I remarked to husband, ' You know after the Harshil mountains, I can't pay attention to these hills of Chamba, my favourite picture postcard village, the hills seem you know babies!:

' Oh the Chamba mountains really got dejected by your remark! ' the husband sneered!


We reached Rishikesh at around nine, checked in to a hotel near Laxman Jhula, at the heart of the old city. The view from the balcony was soothing, the river, mountains and the temple. Though it was hot and humid, we were inside the room just staring at the river, weaning off vacation hangover slowly.


Day 6: Rishikesh to Gurgaon

Morning sight of the river and mountains was a breather to the soul.



Breakfast was sumptuous at German Bakery near the now closed Laxman Jhula. We ordered for Spaghetti Aglio Olio, Banana Crepes and they just tasted awesome.


Potato cheese croquettes


We loitered in the old lanes for some shopping. Junk jewelleries, fridge magnets, few bohemian tops and dresses! Finally some shopping in the trip...as my mother had remarked hearing about our stay away from the civilization, ' This time it seems you'd return without any useless shopping you do!' I didn't disappoint my mother 😜.


The drive to Gurgaon was uneventful as we reeled from the Himalayan hangover!